Vegetable and fruit spirals by Stefano Ciabarri

Julienne, mirepoix, brunoise: chefs have specific terms for vegetable cuts and know how minute differences in shape and size can affect a recipe. With the help of small tools, it is now possible to go far beyond these classic cuts by creating spirals, ribbons, curls, slats, and even noodles of fruits and vegetables in no time.

Freed from the patterns dictated by knife cutting, familiar raw materials take on new shapes and combine with other ingredients in unexpected ways. As shapes change, so do tastes, textures and cooking: ultra-thin cuts make it easier to absorb marinades and seasonings and minimize cooking time; spiral cuts increase surface areas, making caramelization easier and faster. This play of shapes proves to be an advantage not only for those who are trying to include more fruits and vegetables in their diets and not only for those who want to offer these foods to children in a fun form, but also for those who want to make the most humble ingredients more appetizing for a Sunday lunch or dinner with guests. "Noodles" of sweet potatoes are transformed into mouthwatering edible containers, zucchini gills become a tasty salad, even minestrone acquires a refined air simply by changing the cut of the vegetables.

Through six chapters spanning crudités and marinades, finger foods and appetizers, salads and side dishes, starters and main courses, preserves and desserts, the many strands of fruits and vegetables are woven into a cheerful vegetarian cuisine that transforms the concept of garnish, making it the star of the dish.

LEMON, PINEAPPLE AND RAW SUGAR SPONGE CAKE

Ingredients for 1 cake pan 22 cm in diameter

Lemon sponge cake
130 g white flour type 0
100 g granulated sugar
40 g whole white yogurt
3 whole eggs
1 vanilla pod
Peel of half an untreated lemon

Caramelized pineapple
150 g fresh pineapple
70 g raw cane sugar
20 g muscovado sugar

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Peel the pineapple. Using a vegetable cutter fitted with the flat blade, cut out spirals using the entire fruit. Dry the resulting curls lightly with paper towels.
Preheat the static oven to 190 °C. Coat the bottom of the cake pan with muscovado sugar and raw brown sugar.
Bake the cake pan and wait for the sugar to caramelize slightly (with the oven set to 190 °C it will take about 10 minutes). When the sugar has caramelized, lay the pineapple spirals on the bottom of the cake pan and allow to cool.
Meanwhile, sift the flour.
Whisk the whole eggs very well with the granulated sugar, the seeds of the vanilla bean and the grated zest of half a lemon.
As soon as the eggs are whipped, incorporate the yogurt with the help of a silicone spatula, stirring gently from the bottom up so that the whipped mass does not lose volume and air.
Finally, add the sifted flour, always stirring gently from the bottom up. Pour the batter into the cake pan and bake at 190 °C for about 18 minutes. Let the cake cool very well before removing it from the cake pan.