Meatballs take us back to childhood. For many Italians, their flavor has an evocative power equal to that of the madeleine of Proustian fame: one taste and you're right back to six years old. Those little round morsels that escaped to the plate only to be caught by our good fork retain something of a playful quality, even when they pop up, years later, alongside the aperitif. It is when one attempts to make meatballs that one discovers that their simplicity is entirely deceptive. The consistency of the grind, the dose of salt, the perfect browning-they become elements of an exhausting program of experimentation, provided you can find no help. Bruno Barbieri has thought of this. In addition to valuable advice on choosing ingredients, cooking, and pairing with sauces and gravies, he offers 28 recipes, broken down between meatballs, fishballs, and vegetable meatballs. Cooked, raw, stuffed, coated, wrapped in leaves, floating in soups, drowned in sauce, made with leftovers and even first fruits, Barbieri teaches us that making meatballs is a game.
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